![]() Some of it is personal preference, but I know how a real human voice sounds, so when I hear an unnatural quality to human voice through a sound system, yet they measure flat, I trust my ears over the measurement. I wanted "accuracy", and according to the graphs and measurements, I got it, yet at the end of it all, certain things didn't sound right to me. I bought speakers with the flattest response I could find (several of them) and used Audyessy and a few other EQs to "correct" the in-room response, and eventually had my room treated. I have a $10 off promo code from PE, but it expires on 1/19/10, so I'd have to use it like now.I started off with the pursuit for accuracy and was a diehard, textbook objectivist for quite a while. That way I can just plug that in to the laptop for tuning. I did just order a Clarion CCAUSB (google it, I don't know where I put the link) panel mountable USB extension to mount up front for the BitOne. Lots of stuff rambling around in my head. I've also been looking at alternative tweeters to match up with the 720PRS mid, in case I don't care for the PRS Tweets.then Pioneer popped up with their "Stage 4" stuff, so now I'm wondering if I should off the BitOne.1 and pick up a DEX-P99RS. 6ft3 vented.but the 210 models flatter than both with similar output levels while mounted in free air (under rear deck was the plan, but. I've also been looking into subs, mainly the Dayton RS210HF, and the RS265HO's. Lately, I've been looking to pick up an M-audio Mobile Pre USB, a Behringer ECM8000 and either TrueRTA or Fuzzmeasure 3. But the weather has been sub 30 degrees here for a while and we're in the middle of remote start season, so I haven't had much time to do any work on it. My coworker thinks I was crazy to spend that much money on plastic for spacers, but I really don't want to have to redo them ever. I'm happy to know I won't have to worry about water damage ever again on these. I drilled some holes in my plastic spacers and used brass threaded inserts to hold the speakers in. ( outlines the whole procedure) but why pay for products to fix something the dealer will do for free? ![]() So that won't be going in until after I get the TSB done.although I could just do it myself. When I finally make it in to have the other TSB's taken care of, they need to take the back of the car apart (interior wise) so I figured it would be better not to have my bit one and wiring in there so they don't screw it up. The new update fixes the "Rev Hang" issue under acceleration, so I'm happy about that. They updated the ECM programming and reflashed it. ![]() I managed to limp it to the dealer (on a Saturday) and they "fixed" it. Then 3 days later my car started running funny on my way to work. I took it to the dealer and made an appointment. The others were minor things that you get to deal with when you buy an early production car. The one I'm most interested in sounds like it will solve my popping noise when I back down my driveway. The other day I was over on (Hyundai of America's online service website) and found out there were some TSB's that apply to my car. I think for Xmas I'm going to ask for a calibrated Behringer ECM8000 Mic and a Mic Mate or MobilePre so I can RTA stuff and set up my BitOne.1īut here's part of what is slowing me down: GF will be back in town around Xmas, so I doubt I'll get much done, but still. We're going in to remote start season and I'm getting busier at work. I didn't realize I'd neglected my build log so long. The clears are molded on RCA ends, so they might actually be betterĪnyways, I managed to save 19 of them. As a matter of fact, I've had quite a few of the blue ones give me issues where the casing of the rca pulls out of the end. It doesn't seem to me that there would be any benefit at all with using these over the cheaper "clear" ones. The RCA ends are nice, but I was rather surprised to find that the blue RCA's are not shielded and only consist of 2 wires twisted together inside a casing. I had a 4 channel set that one of the wires ripped out of, and a bunch of short ones left over from my truck, so they were sacrificed in order to make new ones. For ends I'm using the ends from JL Audio "Blue" series RCA's. ![]() of Gepco 61801EZ, techflex, pants, heat shrink, etc. I got some threaded inserts for my speaker rings so I can use 10-24 screws to hold the mids in.
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